sweet and salty cake

This is how you end the year with a bang.

With your favorite people by your side. Sequined shorts. Deviled eggs. An obscene amount of Thai food. A lemon cream tart. Bourbon cocktails. Bottles poppin. Sparklers. Fireworks. And an impromptu living room dance party in the wee hours of the new year (New Order! Robyn! T.A. and Ryan!!!). It was perfect. I’m kind of in love with 2013.

This cake actually happened two days before the new year. We started celebrating early because all of the boys were in town from the East Coast and because a certain someone turned thirty-one. And since someone loves caramel, and because I have a thing for making tall layer cakes, a chocolate cake with salted caramel and chocolate-caramel frosting was just the thing.

This cake got around. It went from the East Bay to Pacific Heights, from Pacific Heights down to a restaurant in the Mission, from the Mission to the Castro, where the guys at our favorite late night pizza joint very graciously babysat our take-out boxes of leftover cake while we danced at the bars up the street. It got on two buses and went home with us at the end of the night. And then made it back to Pacific Heights the following morning, where we all ate it with our breakfast, and more later that afternoon when we woke from our naps.

I really appreciate that this is a cake with two personalities. Straight from the refrigerator, the chocolate-caramel frosting is dense and fudge-like. At room temp, it’s more like a chocolate mousse cake. It’s pretty fab either way. I can almost guarantee that you’ll get a few oohs and ahhhs upon unveiling. She’s a showstopper.

Here’s to a fabulous 2013!

sweet and salty cake 

from Baked: New Frontiers in Baking by Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito

makes one 8-inch cake

for the chocolate cake layers: 

3/4 cup dark unsweetened cocoa powder 

1-1/4 cups hot water 

2/3 cup sour cream 

2-2/3 cups all-purpose flour 

2 teaspoons baking powder 

1 teaspoon baking soda 

1/2 teaspoon salt 

3/4 cup (1-1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened 

1/2 cup vegetable shortening 

1-1/2 cups granulated sugar 

1 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar 

3 large eggs, at room temperature 

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract 

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Butter three 8-inch round cake pans, line the bottoms with parchment paper, and butter the parchment. Dust with flour, and knock out the excess flour.

In a medium bowl, combine the cocoa powder, hot water, and sour cream and set aside to cool.

Sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together into a medium bowl and set aside.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and shortening on medium speed until ribbonlike, about 5 minutes. Add the sugars and beat until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition, then add the vanilla and beat until incorporated. Scrape down the bowl and mix again for 30 seconds.

Add the flour mixture, alternating with the cocoa mixture, in three additions, beginning and ending with the flour mixture.

Divide the batter among the prepared pans and smooth the tops. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through the baking time, until a toothpick inserted in the center of each cake comes out clean. Transfer the cakes to a wire rack and let cool for 20 minutes. Invert the cakes onto the rack, remove the pans, and let cool completely. Remove the parchment.

for the salted caramel: 

1/2 cup heavy cream 

1 teaspoon fleur de sel 

1 cup sugar 

2 tablespoons light corn syrup 

1/4 cup sour cream 

In a small saucepan, combine the cream and fleur de sel. Bring to a simmer over very low heat until the salt is dissolved.

Meanwhile, keeping a close eye on the cream mixture so it doesn’t burn, in a medium saucepan combine 1/4 cup water, the sugar, and corn syrup, stirring them together carefully so you don’t splash the sides of the pan. Cook over high heat until an instant-read thermometer reads 350°F, or until the mixture is dark amber in color, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool for 1 minute.

Add the cream mixture to the sugar mixture. Whisk in the sour cream. Let the caramel cool to room temperature, then transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate until you are ready to assemble the cake.

for the whipped caramel ganache frosting: 

1 pound dark chocolate (60 to 70%cacao), chopped

1-1/2 cups heavy cream

1 cup sugar

2 tablespoons light corn syrup

2 cups (4 sticks) unsalted butter, soft but cool, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

Put the chocolate in a large heatproof bowl and set aside.

In a small saucepan, bring the cream to a simmer over very low heat.

Meanwhile, keeping a close eye on the cream so it doesn’t burn, in a medium saucepan combine 1/4 cup water, the sugar, and corn syrup, stirring them together carefully so you don’t splash the sides of the pan. Cook over high heat until an instant read thermometer read 350°F, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from heat and let the caramel cool for 1 minute.

Add the cream to the caramel and stir to combine. Stir slowly for 2 minutes, then pour the caramel over the chocolate. Let the caramel and chocolate sit for 1 minute, then, starting at the center of the bowl, and working your way out to the edges, slowly stir the chocolate and caramel mixture in a circle until the chocolate is completely melted. Let the mixture cool, then transfer it to the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.

Mix on low speed until the bowl feels cool to the touch. Increase the speed to medium-high and gradually add the butter, beating until thoroughly incorporated. Scrape down the bowl and beat until the mixture is fluffy.

to assemble the cake:

2 teaspoons of fleur de sel, plus more for sprinkling  

Place one cake layer on a serving platter or cake board. Spread 1/4 cup of the caramel over the top. Let the caramel soak into the cake, then spread 3/4 cup of the ganache frosting over the caramel. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of the fleur de sel over the frosting, then top with the second cake layer. Spread with 1/4 cup caramel, then spread 3/4 cup of the frosting and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of fleur de sel. Top with the third cake layer. Spread with caramel. Crumb coat the cake and put the cake in the refrigerator for 15 minutes to firm up the frosting. Frost the sides and top with the remaining frosting. Garnish with a sprinkle of fleur de sel.

The cake will keep beautifully in a cake server at cool room temperature for up to 3 days. If your room is not cool, place in the refrigerator. Remove the cake from the refrigerator and let sit at room temperature for at least 2 hours before serving (or not).

pear cranberry bundt cake

This year, I’m going to make a serious effort to have a relaxing Thanksgiving. I’m going to prep the night before, maybe even two nights before because it’s that serious. I’m going to stick to the plan, and not decide to make a different dessert the morning of or make an extra dessert just for the hell of it. I’m going to arrive to dinner on time, my pies will not still be in the oven when I’m already supposed to be at my aunt’s place with the rest of the family. I’m going to be rested and put together AND I will still have energy to see friends after dinner (and maybe even go out dancing to burn off some of that turkey). My mind is made up.

If you’re still looking for a dessert to make for Thanksgiving, I have something for you. This gem comes from the final issue of Gourmet. It’s been three years and I am still mourning the loss of Gourmet. Because it was the Thanksgiving issue, I find myself  thumbing through the pages every holiday season, flagging recipes that I want to add to my repertoire. I’m finally getting around to trying one of them.

I was pretty set on making my usual pie and gallette for Thanksgiving this year. But this pear cranberry cake really grabbed my attention. It just screams “happy holidays.” So I decided to give it a whirl last weekend and was pleasantly surprised by how much I liked it. I was also surprised by how much I consumed. I’ve test driven it twice in the past week and it has gotten the thumbs up from my most discerning tasters.

This cake is the perfect ending to your Turkey Day feast, especially if you’re not a pie person. But even the most die-hard pie lovers will swoon over this cake. You can make it in a bundt or tube pan. It’s studded with tart, fresh cranberries and diced pear, and finished off with a generous coating of brown sugar caramel sauce, which is to die for. And since it’s the easiest thing to throw together, you can have yourself a cocktail (or three) and take it easy this Thanksgiving.

pear cranberry bundt cake

adapted from Gourmet, November 2009

serves 8-12

for the cake:

3 cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground allspice

1 teaspoon fresh grated nutmeg

1-3/4 cups sugar

1-1/4 cups vegetable oil

4 large eggs

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

2 tablespoons rum (optional)

3 Bosc pears (1 1/2 pounds), cut into 1/2-inch pieces

2 cups cranberries (thawed if frozen)

for the glaze:

1 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup packed light brown sugar

1 tablespoon light corn syrup

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

3 (3-inch-long) cinnamon sticks

special equipment: 10-by 4-inch angel food cake pan or 15- cup Bundt pan

Make cake:

Preheat oven to 350°F with rack in middle. Butter cake pan.

Whisk together flour, baking powder, salt, and spices.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat together sugar and oil at low speed. Continue mixing and add the eggs, one at a time, beating until incorporated before adding the next. Add the vanilla and rum and beat on low until combined well.

At low speed, mix in the pears and cranberries, then mix in the flour until incorporated.

Spoon the batter into the prepared pan.

Bake until a wooden pick inserted into center of cake comes out clean, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours.

Cool in pan 30 minutes, then turn out onto a rack and cool completely.

Make glaze: 
Bring cream, brown sugar, corn syrup, vanilla, cinnamon sticks, and a pinch of salt to a boil in a small heavy saucepan, stirring occasionally, then simmer until slightly thickened, about 10 minutes.

Cool glaze 5-10 minutes, until it is the consistency of a medium-bodied caramel sauce. Discard cinnamon sticks, then pour glaze over cake, letting some drip down sides.

baked pumpkin doughnuts with ginger-caramel glaze

October! October has been so! much! fun! Warm nights! Dancing! Birthday parties! Baseball (Sweep! Go Giants!)! Doughnuts!

I’d been daydreaming about pumpkin doughnuts because all of the pumpkins I’d been seeing were telling me that they wanted me to make doughnuts. Doughnuts? Or donuts? Either way, I do what I’m told. Plus, I had bought a doughnut pan a few months ago that had just been waiting to be put to use.

I thought a gingery pumpkin doughnut would really bring down the house. So I chopped up some fresh ginger and threw it in the batter along with cinnamon, fresh grated nutmeg, and Chinese five spice. Then I remembered Bi-rite Creamery’s ginger caramel swirl, and couldn’t help but wonder if it would make an amazing doughnut glaze.

The answer is yes. Yes, with the addition of powdered sugar, that ginger-spiked caramel does make an insane glaze for pumpkin doughnuts. You’ll be licking your fingers. And a little bit of toasted pecan is optional, but really takes things to the next level. Or if you’re feeling festive, a little black and orange sprinkle action is also very acceptable.

baked pumpkin doughnuts with ginger-caramel glaze 

makes about 12-16 doughnuts

for the doughnuts: 

adapted from King Arthur Flour

1/2 cup vegetable oil

3 large eggs

1-1/2 cups granulated sugar

1-1/2 cups pumpkin purée (canned pumpkin)

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 teaspoon Chinese five spice (optional)

1 tablespoon fresh minced ginger

1-1/2 teaspoons salt

1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1- 3/4 cups + 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour\

2/3 cup pecans, toasted and roughly chopped (optional)

sprinkles (optional)

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly grease two standard doughnut pans. If you don’t have doughnut pans, you can bake these in a standard muffin tin; they just won’t be doughnuts.

Beat together the oil, eggs, sugar, pumpkin, spices, ginger, salt, and baking powder until smooth.

Add the flour, stirring just until smooth.

Fill the wells of the doughnut pans about 3/4 full; use a scant 1/4 cup of batter in each well. If you’re making muffins, fill each well about 3/4 full; the recipe makes about 15, so you’ll need to bake in two batches (unless you have two muffin pans).

Bake the doughnuts for 15 to 18 minutes, or until a cake tester inserted into the center of one comes out clean. If you’re making muffins, they’ll need to bake for 23 to 25 minutes.

Remove the doughnuts from the oven, and after about 5 minutes, loosen their edges, and transfer them to a rack to cool.

for the ginger caramel:

adapted from Sweet Cream and Sugar Cones by Kris Hoogerhyde and Anne Walker

makes about 1-1/4 cups

3/4 cup heavy whipping cream

1 cup granulated sugar 

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt 

1 teaspoon ginger spread (check here for store locations)

Set the cream by the stove so it’s at hand when you need it. Put 2 tablespoons of the sugar in a heavy nonreactive saucepan  and put the pan over medium-high heat. When the sugar is melted around the edges and starts to turn amber in places (about 2 minutes), stir the mixture gently and add another 2 tablespoons sugar to the pan.

Continue to add the remaining sugar 2 tablespoons at a time, stirring frequently and allowing most of the sugar to melt before you add more. Watch carefully as the sugar darkens, stirring gently to help it melt evenly.

When the caramel becomes a dark mahogany color, remove the pan from the heat and immediately but slowly pour the cream into the pan. (The mixture will steam and bubble up, so wear oven mitts and be very careful to avoid splatters and steam burns.) When the bubbling subsides, gently stir to completely blend the cream into the caramel. If you have lumps of hardened caramel in your pan, simply put the pan over low heat and stir until the caramel is melted.

Stir in the ginger paste and salt and let cool.

for the ginger-caramel glaze: 

1/2 cup ginger caramel, room temperature  

1 cup powdered sugar

heavy whipping cream 

Pour the ginger caramel in small bowl. Add the powdered sugar and stir until completely incorporated. If the glaze seems too thick, add a small amount of heavy cream and stir. Repeat until you have reached the desired consistency. You want your glaze to be fluid enough to work with, but thick enough so that you get a nice coating that will set.

to assemble: 

Place a doughnut face down in the glaze, then carefully lift and let excess glaze drip from the doughnut back into the bowl. Place on a cooling rack with a parchment-lined baking sheet underneath. Repeat with the remaining doughnuts. Top with chopped toasted pecans or sprinkles. Best eaten same day, but can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to three days.

miette’s tomboy cake

Hi. I’ve missed you. It’s been a while since I last checked in, which makes me feel a little nutty. I’m telling you, there’s just something about September. I’ve been very bad.

Since I was here last, I’ve had a birthday and a few revelations. Turning thirty-one was a breeze; there were no meltdowns, no disasters. Unlike some of the birthdays of years past, this one was very mellow, and exactly what I wanted – a good dinner, a few strong cocktails, and my nearest and dearests. It was a perfect birthday from start to finish. I have the greatest people in my life and I feel extremely lucky.

Because September is my favorite and it’s birthday month, we’re having cake. All day, every day. Or something like that. Haaaaay!

This is Miette’s signature cake, the Tomboy. It can be filed under favorite chocolate cakes, prettiest layer cakes, and even famous San Francisco cakes. Miette has the cutest bake shops in the Bay Area. Sweet and picture perfect, that’s Miette in a nutshell. Their Hayes Valley shop is like a candy-coated dream, like the prettier, girlier, modern version of the candy shop in Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory. If you have an appreciation for beautiful, sweet things, such as macarons, cupcakes, and imported candies, you must pay them a visit.

I actually made a few variations of this chocolate cake over the summer (there were quite a few birthdays in July and August). The double chocolate cake is the base for three cakes in the Miette cookbook, and I gave each of them a spin. I’ll probably share the others with you at some point, but I had to start with the Tomboy. It’s hard to say no to silky Italian buttercream and rich layers of moist, chocolatey cake. Plus, I think it’s such an understated beauty. I love those exposed layers of ruffled buttercream. It’s a cake worthy of any celebration.

miette’s tomboy cake

from Miette: Recipes from San Francisco’s Most Charming Pastry Shop by Meg Ray

makes 1 6-inch layer cake

*Rose Levy Beranbaum included a recipe for Miette’s Tomboy in Rose’s Heavenly Cakes. I tried the recipe from both books and ultimately preferred Rose’s technique, which was a bit less labor intensive a still produced a dense, moist cake. The buttercream and assembly technique are from Miette.

double chocolate cake

from Rose’s Heavenly Cakes by Rose Levy Beranbaum

1/2 cup boiling water

1 ounce dark chocolate, 70% cacao, chopped 

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup sugar

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

3/4 cup plus 1-1/2 tablespoons unsweetened natural cocoa powder

1-1/4 teaspoons baking powder 

3/4 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 large egg, at room temperature

1/4 cup canola oil

1/2 cup buttermilk

1 icing rose (optional), available here

Twenty minutes before baking, set an oven rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 350°F.

Thoroughly butter one 6 by 3-inch round cake pan. Place a parchment round in the bottom of the buttered pan, then butter the parchment. Dust with cocoa powder. Set aside.

In a medium bowl, pour the boiling water over the chocolate. Stir occasionally until the chocolate is melted and smooth. Cover with plastic wrap to prevent evaporation and cool until it is no longer warm to the touch but is still fluid. Stir in the vanilla.

In a medium bowl, sift together the sugar, flour, cocoa, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitter with the whisk attachment, beat the egg on high speed until thickened and light in color, about 3 minutes. Lower the speed to medium and slowly add the oil to emulsify the egg. Beat in the buttermilk and melted chocolate mixture until well combined.

Add the flour mixture and beat on low speed for a few seconds until the dry ingredients are moistened. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl. Raise the speed to medium-high and beat for 2 minutes. The batter will be thick and shiny. Using a silicone spatula, Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the surfaces with a small offset spatula.

Bake the cake for 55 to 65 minutes, or until a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean and the cake springs back when pressed lightly in the center.

Let the cake cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Run a small metal spatula between the sides of the cake and the pan, and invert the cake onto a wire rack. Remove the parchment and immediately reinvert the cake so that the top side is up. Cover the top with a piece of plastic wrap to keep the upper crust soft. Cool completely.

vanilla buttercream

from Miette: Recipes from San Francisco’s Most Charming Pastry Shop by Meg Ray

makes about 6 cups, enough to frost two 6-inch cakes

2 cups sugar

1/3 cup water

5 large egg whites

1 teaspoon cream of tartar

3 cups unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 tablespoons vanilla extract

In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the sugar and water. Clip a candy thermometer to the side of the pan. Cook the mixture until it reaches 248°F, 5 to 10 minutes, keeping a constant eye on it.

Meanwhile, combine the egg whites and cream of tartar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. When the sugar syrup reaches 240°F, turn the mixer on and whisk the egg whites on medium-low speed until soft peaks form.

When the sugar syrup reaches 248°F, reduce the mixer speed to low and very carefully drizzle the hot syrup into the mixer bowl, away from the whisk so that it doesn’t spatter. Be very careful when working with the hot syrup. When you have added all of the syrup, raise the speed to high and beat until the mixture is cool to the touch, 5-10 minutes.

When the meringue is cool, reduce the speed to medium. With the mixer running, drop in the butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, waiting until each piece is incorporated before adding another. The mixture may deflate and look curdled. Raise the speed to high and continue to add tablespoon-size pieces of butter. When all of the butter has been added, the frosting should be smooth and thick. Add the vanilla and mix to combine.

to assemble:

Using a serrated knife, cut the cake into three equal layers. Using your hands, tap off and brush away excess crumbs. Place the bottom layer of cake in the center of a cake board.

Fit a pastry bag with a medium (1/2 or 5/8-inch) star tip and fill about halfway with buttercream. Holding the bag at a 90-degree angle, pipe a ring of frosting around the outer edge of the cake, keeping a 1/8-inch border at the very edge. Starting at the inner edge of the border, spiral inward filling in the center of the ring to make an even layer of buttercream. Using an offset spatula, smooth the inside of the ring, leaving the piped edges untouched.

Place the second cake layer on top of the buttercream layer. Using your fingertips, gently center the cake on top. Repeat with another layer of buttercream just like you did on the first layer.

Place the third cake layer on top of the buttercream. Using your fingertips, gently press down in the center of the cake. Pipe a ring of buttercream around the edge, leaving a 1/8-inch margin. Fill in the center with slightly more frosting than the inner layers. Using a small offset spatula, smooth the center, pushing the frosting out very slightly.

If desired, scoop out a little hole in the frosting in the center of the cake to make  a setting for the rose. Nestle the rose in the hole and arrange the leaf next to it at a 45-degree angle.

Serve the cake at room temperature. Serve at once or hold at room temp for up to 4 hours. The cake will keep refrigerated for up to 3 days.

apricot almond breakfast cake

Apricots are in the house! Is anyone else excited? A good apricot is one of my favorite treats. And there is such a small window of time between late spring and early summer when the apricots are just perfect – fragrant and quietly sweet and juicy. I know I’m late to the party, but I’ve just discovered Blenheim apricots and I am smitten. I haven’t had a bad one yet. They are so pleasant (and pretty!). I can’t stop thinking about them.

The original plan was to make jam. But what I really wanted was an apricot cake. Actually, what I really, really wanted was an almond apricot cake. So I tried the first recipe I found. It was fine, but if I’m being completely honest, it wasn’t anything to write home about. Then a few days later, while working on a scone experiment, I came across another recipe that totally fit the bill.

This beauty comes from Tartine. It’s an almond breakfast cake, which is essentially a coffee cake, made with almond paste and almond meal and welcomes any seasonal fruit to be scattered over the batter, my choice of course being apricots, though I am certain that blueberries would be another fantastic choice. This is a very decadent cake, dense and buttery in the best possible way. I love the richness and the almond flavor of the cake paired with the jammy, sweet-tart pockets of fresh apricot. The almond crumble is excellent and adds a nice contrast in texture. I plan to use it on other streusel-topped goodies in the future. I also plan on making this cake again and again. I’ve already made it twice.

apricot almond breakfast cake

from Tartine by Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson

makes one 9-inch cake

crumble topping

1/2 cup unsalted butter

3/4 cup + 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2/3 cup natural almond meal

1/2 cup + 1 tablespoon sugar

pinch of salt

cake

1/2 cup + 1 tablespoon (6 ounces) almond paste

1 cup + 2 tablespoons sugar

3/4 cup unsalted butter

1-1/2 cups + 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 large eggs

8-10 apricots, depending on size, pitted and halved

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 9-inch round cake pan, preferably with a removable bottom or a springform pan. Set aside.

for the crumble topping:

Place the butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on medium-high speed until creamy. Add the flour, almond meal, sugar, and salt and mix only until all the ingredients are evenly incorporated. You do not want a smooth mixture; it should have a crumbly appearance. Transfer the crumble topping to another bowl, making sure to scrape the mixing bowl clean. Set aside.

for the cake:

Place the almond paste in the same mixing bowl used for the crumble topping (no need to wash the bowl first). Mix on low speed until the paste is broken up. Add the sugar and gradually increase the speed to medium. Continue to mix until the sugar breaks up the almond paste fully and there are no more lumps. Add the butter and mix until creamy, about 1 minute. Stop the mixer as needed to scrape down the bottom and sides of the bowl with a spatula. On low speed, add the flour, baking powder, salt, and eggs all at once, then increase the speed to medium and mix just until everything is combined. Do not overmix.

Pour the cake batter into the prepared pan. Use an offset spatula to spread the batter evenly in the pan. Place the apricot halves over the batter, cut side up. Distribute the almond crumble evenly over the entire cake. (At this point you can cover the assembled cake loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. The next morning, remove the cake from the fridge and leave it out at room temperature for about 45 minutes before baking.)

Bake the cake until the crumble topping is golden brown and the fruit is bubbling, about 1 hour and 20 minutes (the book says 40 minutes, but my cake took much longer, possibly because of the amount of liquid from the apricots). Start checking the cake after 1 hour, and then every 10 minutes going forward. It is difficult to test the doneness of the cake with a cake tester, as the fruit is moist and the tester wont come out clean. Don’t worry about overbaking – the fruit and almond paste will prevent the cake from becoming dry. If you are not sure if the cake is done, insert a small knife into the center and gently push some of the cake aside to see if it is cooked. Let the cake cool on a wire rack for at least 15 minutes before releasing it from the pan and serving.

pumpkin layer cake with caramel cream cheese frosting

It’s really starting to feel like November around here. Just the other day I was musing about how sunny and glorious it was as I crossed the Bay Bridge on my way home from work. And now I’m wearing leg warmers in bed.

November. Goodbye, daylight. Hello, scarves and coats and extra layers. Goodbye, stone fruit and tomatoes. Hey there, pumpkin recipes.

This one caught my attention as I was flipping through the pages of Bon Appetit Desserts, in search of a cake to bake for Rodney’s birthday. It sounded promising – pumpkin and spices and a caramel cream cheese frosting. And it was good. But it needed a little bit of a boost. So I made it a second time and doubled up on the spice and added an extra spoonful of sugar, which seemed to do the trick.

I wish I could tell you that this cake is full of pumpkin flavor. But it’s not. It’s a subtle pumpkin cake, which makes it an excellent platform for this insane caramel cream cheese frosting. And candied orange. Seriously, the caramel cream cheese frosting is a winner on its own; it’s like your favorite cream cheese frosting, but with a deepness and complexity that only caramel can provide. And the candied orange adds a bit of brightness and texture that really ties it all together. Something about this cake just screams autumn. It’s here. Get used to it.

pumpkin layer cake with caramel cream cheese frosting

adapted from Bon Appetit Desserts by Barbara Fairchild

serves 8-10

for the frosting:

4 cups powdered sugar, divided

1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon heavy whipping cream

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 8-ounce package cream cheese, room temperature

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

for the cake:

3 cups all purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking soda

2 teaspoons baking powder

2 teaspoons cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom

1 15-ounce can pure pumpkin

1-1/2 cups plus 1 tablespoon sugar

1-1/4 cups vegetable oil

4 large eggs

2 teaspoons finely grated orange peel

for the garnish:

candied orange peel*

*Candied orange peel is available seasonally at most grocery stores or year round at specialty shops. Or you can make it yourself. (I’ll post a recipe soon. Promise!)

For the frosting:

Sprinkle 1/2 cup powdered sugar over bottom of small nonstick skillet. Cook over medium heat until sugar melts (do not stir). Continue cooking until sugar turns deep amber, stirring occasionally, about 2 minutes. Carefully stir in 1/2 cup cream, vanilla, and salt (mixture will bubble vigorously). Stir until any caramel bits dissolve. Stir in remaining 1 tablespoon cream. Strain into small bowl. Cool caramel to room temperature.

Sift remaining powdered sugar into medium bowl. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat cream cheese and butter. Gradually beat in powdered sugar. Beat in cooled caramel. Cover and chill frosting until firm enough to spread, about 2 hours.

For the cake:

Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter and flour two 9-inch cake pans with 1 1/2-inch-high sides, tapping out any excess flour. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, baking powder, and spices. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat together the pumpkin, sugar, and oil. Add eggs, one at a time, beating to incorporate between additions. Mix in orange peel. Add flour mixture; beat on low speed just to blend. Divide batter between the prepared pans.

Bake cakes until tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 33 minutes. Cool in pans 10 minutes. Invert onto rack, then turn top side up and cool completely.

Using long serrated knife, trim rounded tops from cakes. Place 1 cake layer on cake plate, cut side up. Spread 3/4 cup frosting over the bottom layer. Place second cake layer, cut side down, atop frosting. Cover top and sides of cake with remaining frosting, creating a smooth surface.

Sprinkle candied orange peel over top of cake. Cut into wedges and serve.

If you plan to make the cake in advance, cover with cake dome or large bowl and chill. Let stand at cool room temperature for 2 hours before serving. Can be made up to two days in advance.

30 for 30 and a cake

One morning you wake up, and your twenties are over. True story. I was in a bit of a panic about turning thirty, not because I was worried about getting older, I was just sad that I wasn’t going to be in my twenties anymore. Does that make any sense?

The last 48 hours of my twenties were pretty incredible. I stood by as one of my best friends gave birth to a perfect little girl. It began with an early morning phone call, followed by hours of hanging out and sleeping at the hospital. And then everything happened really quickly. I saw things that I never thought I would ever be so close to. The baby’s head, then a tiny shoulder and then little baby cries – all of it flashing before my eyes. The things I had been upset about the week prior to that suddenly seemed so unimportant. It was a life changing moment.

I turned thirty two days later. It’s wild how fast ten years come and go. What’s even more crazy is how much everything changes. I never could have imagined my life as it is today back when I was twenty. I never could have dreamed of the people that would fill my life, the experiences, the decisions I would make. It has been an amazing decade. I would not change a thing.

In my early-mid twenties, I used to make CD mixes for birthdays and holidays and distribute them to friends. In the spirit of those old mixes, I compiled a playlist of thirty songs for my thirtieth birthday, all produced in my thirty years of living. Some are old favorites, some are new favorites, others are significant in terms of time and place.

30 for 30

1981: Ceremony – New Order
1982: Don’t Change – INXS
1983: Total Eclipse of the Heart – Bonnie Tyler
1984: Let’s Go Crazy – Prince
1985: Only the Young – Journey
1986: There is a Light That Never Goes Out – The Smiths
1987: Push It – Salt n Pepa
1988: Punk Rock Girl – Dead Milkmen
1989: Like a Prayer – Madonna
1990: Groove is in the Heart – Deee-lite
1991: Drain You – Nirvana
1992: Friday I’m in Love – The Cure
1993: Today – Smashing Pumpkins
1994: Violet – Hole
1995: Hyper-Ballad – Bjork
1996: Born Slippy – Underworld
1997: Let Down – Radiohead
1998: Over – Portishead
1999: Staralfur – Sigur Ros
2000: Good Fortune – PJ Harvey
2001: Last Nite – The Strokes
2002: KC Accidental – Broken Social Scene
2003: Such Great Heights – Postal Service
2004: Not Even Jail – Interpol
2005: I’ll Believe in Anything – Wolf Parade
2006: Wolf Like Me – TV on the Radio
2007: Past in Present – Feist
2008: Kids – MGMT
2009: Soft Shock – Yeah Yeah Yeahs
2010: We Used to Wait – Arcade Fire

There was also a cake. Because the week leading up to my birthday didn’t go quite as planned, the cake came a few days later, which was totally fine by me as there were plenty of celebratory cupcakes consumed over the course of the birthday weekend. The passion fruit and lime Bavarian cake is a Tartine classic. I’d been waiting a while for an excuse to make this cake, and what better excuse than a big birthday? It involves layers of chiffon, passion fruit Bavarian cream, and shaved coconut. Everything about this cake is scrumptious and it’s also extremely light, so be careful, or you might find yourself going to town. Not that there’s anything wrong with that. But don’t say I didn’t warn you.

passion fruit and lime bavarian

adapted from Tartine by Elisabeth Pruiett and Chad Robertson

serves 12-16

for the chiffon cake:

2-1/4 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1-1/2 cups sugar

3/4 teaspoons salt

1/2 cup vegetable oil

6 large egg yolks

3/4 cup water

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1-1/2 teaspoons grated lemon zest

10 large egg whites

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line the bottom of a 10-inch springform pan with parchment paper cut to fit exactly. Do not grease the sides of the pan.

Sift together the flour and baking powder into a large mixing bowl. Add 1-1/4 cups of the sugar and the salt and whisk to combine. In a small bowl, whisk together the oil, egg yolks, water, vanilla, and lemon zest. Make a well in the flour, add the yolk mixture, and then whisk thoroughly and quickly for about 1 minute until very smooth.

Place the egg whites in a large mixing bowl. Using a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat on medium speed until frothy. Add the cream of tartar and beat on medium-high speed until the whites hold soft peaks. Slowly add the remaining 1/4 cup sugar and beat on medium-high speed until the whites hold firm, shiny peaks. Using a rubber spatula, scoop about one-third of the whites onto the yolk mixture and fold in gently to lighten the batter. Gently fold in the remaining whites just until combined.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan, smoothing the top with an offset spatula if necessary. Bake until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 45-55 minutes. Let cool in the pan (the sides of the pan will help hold the structure of the cake as it cools) on a wire rack. To unmold, run a small, thin knife around the sides of the pan to loosen the cake and then release and lift off the pan sides. Invert the cake, peel off the parchment, and cool completely. The cake will keep, well wrapped, in the refrigerator for up to 4 days or in the freezer for up to 1 month. When ready to assemble, split the cake into 4 layers. You will only need 3 layers for this recipe. Reserve the extra layer for another use.

for the lime syrup:

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 cup water

grated zest of 2 limes

1/3 cup lime juice

Combine the sugar and water in a small, heavy saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring with a wooden spoon. When the sugar has dissolved, remove from the heat and chill until cool, about 30 minutes. Whisk the lime zest and juice into the syrup.

Line the sides of the springform pan with plastic wrap, allowing enough overhang to cover the top of the cake completely when it is assembled. Leave the bottom of the pan unlined. Fit1 cake layer into the bottom of the pan. Using a pastry brush, moisten the later with one-third of the lime syrup. Set aside.

for the bavarian cream:

2/3 cup passion fruit pulp, frozen or fresh (about 12 fruits)

2 large egg yolks

1/3 cup sugar

pinch of salt

1-1/2 teaspoons unflavored gelatin

2 tablespoons water

1-1/2 cups heavy cream

Pass the passion fruit pulp through a fine-mesh sieve placed over a small bowl and discard seeds. In a large bowl, prepare an ice bath of both ice and water. In a medium saucepan, bring about 2-inches of water to a simmer. Combine the egg yolks, sugar, passion fruit, and salt in a stainless steel bowl that will rest securely in the saucepan, making sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water. Whick together and then place over the saucepan and continue to whisk until the yolks are hot to the touch (120°F), about 7 minutes. This is the bombe.

Meanwhile, sprinkle the gelatin over water in a small dish and let stand for a few minutes to soften. When the bombe is ready, add the gelatin and whisk well to dissolve. Remove the bowl from the hot water and nest the  bowl in the ice bath jsut until slightly cool to the touch, whisking to cool the mixture evenly.

In the bowl of a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the cream until it holds medium-stiff peaks. Scoop about one-third of the cream into the bombe. Gently fold in the remaining whipped cream with a rubber spatula.

Working quickly, pour half of the mixture onto the first layer of cake. Top with the second layer, being careful as the filling is very liquid. Brush this layer with half of the remaining lime syrup and then immediately pour the remaining Bavarian cream over it. Carefully top with the last layer and moisten it with the remaining syrup. Fold the overhanging plastic wrap over the top of the cake, covering completely, and refrigerate overnight.

When you are ready to finish the cake, release and lift off the pan sides and peel away the plastic wrap. Using a wide metal spatula, transfer the cake to a serving plate, if using, or leave it on the cake pan base.

for the topping:

1-1/2 cups heavy cream

3 tablespoons sugar

1 cup unsweetened large-flake dried coconut

Using a whisk or stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the cream until thickened. Add the sugar and whip until the cream holds soft peaks. Using an offset spatula, frost the top and sides of the cake with the whipped cream, and then sprinkle the top and sides with coconut. Return the cake to the refrigerator for about 2 hours before serving to allow the coconut flakes to absorb the moisture from the cream and soften.

Serve the cake cold. It will keep in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

chocolate whoopie pies

It feels like it’s been forever since I was last here. I swear I’ve been meaning to write. But I’ve been running around like a chicken with its head cut off and playing event coordinator and baking like it’s nobody’s business. Does anyone else feel like August is moving at a rapid pace? I can’t believe how fast these days have come and gone. I also can’t believe that in thirty days I’ll be thirty. OMG. WTF? I’m not ready. Let’s talk about whoopie pies.

When I started seeing whoopie pie pans at Sur la Table a while back, I was skeptical. Maybe unenthusiastic is a better word. I thought of it as just another fad in the baking world. I had never had a whoopie pie, and though I like the original concept behind them (a use for excess cake batter), I never had much interest in making them.

But a few weeks ago I passed by a sweet looking little bakery after having dinner with Adrian and Ash and decided to pop in to pick up cupcakes for my sister’s birthday party. What actually caught my attention was a mountain of whoopie pies in the display case. So I ordered one to go.

We each took a bite of the ginormous cookie sandwich as we walked to the car. Rather than the cakey-cookie delight I had imagined, it was, though tasty, just two cookies filled with sugary buttercream. It went into my purse and stayed there until later that night, when I was at the bar and craving something sweet. I was with Edwin at that point and when he took his first bite, he said something along the lines of it tasting the way a baby or a cute little animal would taste if you bit into it (something only Edwin would say).  He was into it. Since his birthday was in just a few days to follow, I decided he would have whoopie pies. And I knew exactly where to turn for a recipe.

I know I’ve already declared my love for the gentlemen at Baked and their first book. Their second book, Baked Explorations, focuses on classic American desserts. Luckily for me, there were a few whoopie pie recipes to choose from. I went with the classic chocolate pie with Swiss vanilla filling.

Whoopie! I finally understand what all the hoopla is about. These whoopie pies are exactly what I imagined a whoopie pie should be. They’re cakey but have a slight cookie resemblance. And the Swiss buttercream is unbelievably light, kind of creamy and marshmallowy all at once. The combination of the rich chocolate cakey-cookie and airy vanilla filling is perfection. They’re like little hand-held cakes, which make them an ideal on-the-go treat. I think I know where Little Debbie got her inspiration.

chocolate whoopie pies

from Baked Explorations by Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito

makes 12-20 pies (depending on size)

for the cookies:

3-1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

1-1/4 teaspoons baking powder

1-1/4 teaspoons baking soda

3/4 cup dark unsweetened cocoa powder (preferably Valrhona)

2 teaspoons instant espresso powder

1/2 cup hot coffee

2 cups firmly packed light brown sugar

3/4 cup canola oil

1 large egg

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1/2 cup buttermilk, shaken

for the swiss vanilla filling:

5 large egg whites

1-1/2 cups sugar

2 cups (4 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes, cool but not cold

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

make the chocolate cookies:

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, baking powder, and baking soda. Set aside.

In another large bowl, whisk together the cocoa and espresso powders. Add the hot coffee and 1/2 cup hot water and whisk until completely dissolved.

In a medium bowl, stir the brown sugar and oil together. Add this to the cocoa mixture and whisk until combined. Add the egg, vanilla, and buttermilk and whisk until smooth.

Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients. Make sure to scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl as you fold.

Use a small ice cream scoop with a release mechanism to drop heaping tablespoons of the batter onto the prepared baking sheets about 1 inch apart. Bake for 10-15 minutes, until the cookies are just starting to crack on top and a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Let the cookies cool completely on the pans while you make the vanilla filling.

make the Swiss vanilla filling: 

In the bowl of an electric mixer, whisk the egg whites and sugar together. Set the bowl over a pan of simmering water but do not let the water touch the bottom of the bowl. Heat the mixture until the sugar is completely dissolved and the color is a milky white, about 2 to 3 minutes.

With the mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat on low then increase to  medium-high speed until smooth and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Remove the whisk attachment and replace with the paddle attachment. Add the cubed butter and beat on medium-high  speed until smooth and fluffy, about 5 minutes. If the butter looks like it’s breaking, keep beating until it comes together.

Add the salt and vanilla and beat for 5 seconds to combine.

assemble the whoopie pies:

Turn half of the cooled cookies upside down (flat side facing up).

Use and ice cream scoop or a tablespoon to drop a large dollop of filling onto the flat side of the cookie. Place another cookie on top of the filling. Press down slightly so that the filling spreads to the edges of the cookie. Repeat until all the cookies are used. Put the whoopie pies in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes to firm up before serving.

The whoopie pies will keep for up to 3 days, on a parchment lined baking sheet covered with plastic wrap, in the refrigerator. Bring the whoopie pies chilled or at room temperature.

strawberry elderflower layer cake

My to-do list for 2012 is growing daily. At the very top of the list: elderflower procurement. Plant it, buy it, forage for it, whatever it takes - I absolutely must have elderflower next year.

Why the urgency? I wanted to make an elderflower cocktail for an upcoming event that I’m planning, so I bought a bottle of elderflower syrup. But after I brought it home, I found myself wishing I could have made it myself. Elderflower is pretty hard to come by in these parts, and I believe I’ve just missed the small window of availability for the year. I’ve mentioned in the past that I’m a bit obsessive, right?

Since I had been daydreaming about elderflower, I couldn’t wait to put that elderflower syrup to use. I was already in the process of baking a cake for the July birthday festivities when it occurred to me – strawberries + elderflower cream + cake = heaven.

If you’re in search of the perfect cake for summer, look no further. This cake is a winner.  I’m a sucker tall cakes, and with four layers of tender sponge filled with elderflower-spiked whipped cream and fresh strawberries, this is most definitely a tall cake. To get the most of the elderflower flavor, I also brushed a little bit of the syrup onto each layer of cake. What you’ll end up with is a cake that is incredibly light, subtly floral and showcases the fresh, sweet strawberries perfectly.

Not only is this cake totally scrumptious, it is also quite a beauty. With its exposed layers and elderflower essence, it’s like the scantily clad, lightly perfumed cousin of the strawberry cakes my mom used to buy from the bakery for our birthdays. Now if that doesn’t convince you, I don’t know what will.

strawberry elderflower layer cake

adapted from Martha Stewart’s Baking Handbook by Martha Stewart

makes one 9-inch layer cake

unsalted butter, for pans

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 cup cornstarch

6 large whole eggs, plus 4 large egg yolks, room temperature

1 cup granulated sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

3/4 cup vegetable oil

4 cups heavy whipping cream

6 tablespoons elderflower syrup, plus more for the cake layers

2 tablespoons confectioners sugar

3 pints small strawberries, hulled

mint leaves, for garnish

Preheat the oven to 350F. Butter two 9-inch round cake pans; set aside.

In large bowl, sift together the flour and corn starch; set aside.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine the sugar, whole eggs, egg yolks salt and vanilla extract. Beat on high speed until thick and pale, about 5 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed.

Add the flour mixture to the egg mixture. With the mixer on low speed, beat until just combined. Add the oil in a steady stream and mix until just combined. Fold the mixture with a whisk a several times.

Divide the batter between the prepared pans and smooth with an offset spatula. Bake, rotating pans halfway through, until the cakes spring back when touched and a cake tester inserted comes out clean, about 30 minutes.

Immediately invert cakes onto a wire rack. Then reinvert cakes and let them cool completely, top sides up.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine cream, 6 tablespoons of elderflower syrup, and confectioners sugar. Starting on low speed and gradually increasing to medium-high, whip until stiff peaks form, about 2 minutes.

Using a serrated knife, trim the tops of the cakes to make level. Slice each cake in half horizontally into two layers. Place one of the bottom layers on a serving plate. Brush the later with elderflower syrup. Spread a quarter of the whipped cream over the layer; arrange a quarter of the strawberries on top, reserving the best looking strawberries for the top layer. Repeat with the remaining cake layers, syrup, cream, and strawberries. Garnish the top with mint leaves. Chill the cake if not serving immediately. Slice with a serrated knife and a large spatula.

apple graham coffee cake

Hey rhubarb! Where you at?

This is the pressing matter at the moment. Maybe I’m mistaken, but I swear there is usually rhubarb at the farmer’s market this time of the year. But I’ve been checking every week. And nada. No rhubarb is an indication to me that it’s not really spring yet. And this makes me yearn for springtime even more. Oh well. Hopefully I’ll have some rhurbarb deliciousness to share with you in the not-too-distant future.

In the meantime, I’m doing a bit of spring cleaning over here. I recently took an inventory of my pantry and have come to realize that I have a lot of flour. Like a lot. Some of it is leftover from past experiments. And then there is some that I’ve been hoarding for future projects. It’s a little bit out of control, so I’m making a point to use what I have before I buy anything else.

Enter Good to the Grain. This lovely book has been sitting on my shelf for quite some time, waiting patiently for a little attention. It’s full of recipes that call for flours other than your run of the mill all-purpose variety. Since there is a whole chapter devoted to whole wheat flour, I decided it was time to finally crack open the package of graham flour that I’ve been holding onto. And since I had apples on hand, it seemed the only thing to do was make this apple graham coffee cake.

I’m a sucker for apple cakes. There is something so simple, even humble about an apple cake. Apples, cinnamon, sugar, flour, you get the picture. I was pleasantly surprised by this particular apple cake; I have to admit that I get a bit nervous when whole wheat flour is involved. I live in fear of heavy masses of dry, flavorless dough. But this cake is exactly the opposite – it is incredibly moist with a light crumb and bit of a rustic feel from the coarse graham flour. And the caramelized apples baked into the surface of the cake are just perfect, tender and sticky with cinnamon and sugar. Not only will this cake satisfy your sweet tooth, but you might just join the whole-grain fan club.

apple graham coffee cake

adapted from Good to the Grain by Kim Boyce

makes one 9-inch round cake

apple topping:

2 large tart apples (I used Granny Smiths), peeled and cored

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon sugar

dry mix:

3/4 cup all-purposr flour

3/4 cup graham flour

3/4 cup whole-grain pastry flour

1/3 cup sugar

1/3 cup dark brown sugar

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1 tablespoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1 teaspoon kosher salt

wet mix:

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly

1 cup buttermilk

1/4 cup whole plain yogurt

1/4 cup unsweetened applesauce

1 large egg

Preheat the oven to 350°F, with the rack positioned in the middle of the oven. Butter a 9-inch round cake pan with high sides (I used a 9×3-inch pan with a removable bottom). Set aside.

Quarter the apples, then cut each quarter into thirds. Slice the thirds into pieces as thick as your thumb.

In a large skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of butter with 2 tablespoons of sugar and 1 teaspoon of cinnamon over medium-high heat until bubbly. Add the apples and toss to coat, then let sear for 1 minute without stirring. Cook for 6-10 minutes, until tender and caramelized, stirring once a minute or so. Remove the caramelized apples from the heat and scrape them onto a plate with the buttery sauce.

Sift the dry ingredients into a large bowl and set aside.

Whisk together the wet ingredients until thoroughly combined. Using a spatula, scrape the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and gently mix until combined. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan, smoothing the top with a spatula. Spread the apple topping evenly over the batter.

Bake on the middle rack for 40-48 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through baking. The cake is ready when it is golden brown and springs back when lightly touched, or when a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean. Serve the cake warm or at room temperature.