pumpkin layer cake with caramel cream cheese frosting

It’s really starting to feel like November around here. Just the other day I was musing about how sunny and glorious it was as I crossed the Bay Bridge on my way home from work. And now I’m wearing leg warmers in bed.

November. Goodbye, daylight. Hello, scarves and coats and extra layers. Goodbye, stone fruit and tomatoes. Hey there, pumpkin recipes.

This one caught my attention as I was flipping through the pages of Bon Appetit Desserts, in search of a cake to bake for Rodney’s birthday. It sounded promising – pumpkin and spices and a caramel cream cheese frosting. And it was good. But it needed a little bit of a boost. So I made it a second time and doubled up on the spice and added an extra spoonful of sugar, which seemed to do the trick.

I wish I could tell you that this cake is full of pumpkin flavor. But it’s not. It’s a subtle pumpkin cake, which makes it an excellent platform for this insane caramel cream cheese frosting. And candied orange. Seriously, the caramel cream cheese frosting is a winner on its own; it’s like your favorite cream cheese frosting, but with a deepness and complexity that only caramel can provide. And the candied orange adds a bit of brightness and texture that really ties it all together. Something about this cake just screams autumn. It’s here. Get used to it.

pumpkin layer cake with caramel cream cheese frosting

adapted from Bon Appetit Desserts by Barbara Fairchild

serves 8-10

for the frosting:

4 cups powdered sugar, divided

1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon heavy whipping cream

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 8-ounce package cream cheese, room temperature

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

for the cake:

3 cups all purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking soda

2 teaspoons baking powder

2 teaspoons cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom

1 15-ounce can pure pumpkin

1-1/2 cups plus 1 tablespoon sugar

1-1/4 cups vegetable oil

4 large eggs

2 teaspoons finely grated orange peel

for the garnish:

candied orange peel*

*Candied orange peel is available seasonally at most grocery stores or year round at specialty shops. Or you can make it yourself. (I’ll post a recipe soon. Promise!)

For the frosting:

Sprinkle 1/2 cup powdered sugar over bottom of small nonstick skillet. Cook over medium heat until sugar melts (do not stir). Continue cooking until sugar turns deep amber, stirring occasionally, about 2 minutes. Carefully stir in 1/2 cup cream, vanilla, and salt (mixture will bubble vigorously). Stir until any caramel bits dissolve. Stir in remaining 1 tablespoon cream. Strain into small bowl. Cool caramel to room temperature.

Sift remaining powdered sugar into medium bowl. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat cream cheese and butter. Gradually beat in powdered sugar. Beat in cooled caramel. Cover and chill frosting until firm enough to spread, about 2 hours.

For the cake:

Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter and flour two 9-inch cake pans with 1 1/2-inch-high sides, tapping out any excess flour. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, baking powder, and spices. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat together the pumpkin, sugar, and oil. Add eggs, one at a time, beating to incorporate between additions. Mix in orange peel. Add flour mixture; beat on low speed just to blend. Divide batter between the prepared pans.

Bake cakes until tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 33 minutes. Cool in pans 10 minutes. Invert onto rack, then turn top side up and cool completely.

Using long serrated knife, trim rounded tops from cakes. Place 1 cake layer on cake plate, cut side up. Spread 3/4 cup frosting over the bottom layer. Place second cake layer, cut side down, atop frosting. Cover top and sides of cake with remaining frosting, creating a smooth surface.

Sprinkle candied orange peel over top of cake. Cut into wedges and serve.

If you plan to make the cake in advance, cover with cake dome or large bowl and chill. Let stand at cool room temperature for 2 hours before serving. Can be made up to two days in advance.

30 for 30 and a cake

One morning you wake up, and your twenties are over. True story. I was in a bit of a panic about turning thirty, not because I was worried about getting older, I was just sad that I wasn’t going to be in my twenties anymore. Does that make any sense?

The last 48 hours of my twenties were pretty incredible. I stood by as one of my best friends gave birth to a perfect little girl. It began with an early morning phone call, followed by hours of hanging out and sleeping at the hospital. And then everything happened really quickly. I saw things that I never thought I would ever be so close to. The baby’s head, then a tiny shoulder and then little baby cries – all of it flashing before my eyes. The things I had been upset about the week prior to that suddenly seemed so unimportant. It was a life changing moment.

I turned thirty two days later. It’s wild how fast ten years come and go. What’s even more crazy is how much everything changes. I never could have imagined my life as it is today back when I was twenty. I never could have dreamed of the people that would fill my life, the experiences, the decisions I would make. It has been an amazing decade. I would not change a thing.

In my early-mid twenties, I used to make CD mixes for birthdays and holidays and distribute them to friends. In the spirit of those old mixes, I compiled a playlist of thirty songs for my thirtieth birthday, all produced in my thirty years of living. Some are old favorites, some are new favorites, others are significant in terms of time and place.

30 for 30

1981: Ceremony – New Order
1982: Don’t Change – INXS
1983: Total Eclipse of the Heart – Bonnie Tyler
1984: Let’s Go Crazy – Prince
1985: Only the Young – Journey
1986: There is a Light That Never Goes Out – The Smiths
1987: Push It – Salt n Pepa
1988: Punk Rock Girl – Dead Milkmen
1989: Like a Prayer – Madonna
1990: Groove is in the Heart – Deee-lite
1991: Drain You – Nirvana
1992: Friday I’m in Love – The Cure
1993: Today – Smashing Pumpkins
1994: Violet – Hole
1995: Hyper-Ballad – Bjork
1996: Born Slippy – Underworld
1997: Let Down – Radiohead
1998: Over – Portishead
1999: Staralfur – Sigur Ros
2000: Good Fortune – PJ Harvey
2001: Last Nite – The Strokes
2002: KC Accidental – Broken Social Scene
2003: Such Great Heights – Postal Service
2004: Not Even Jail – Interpol
2005: I’ll Believe in Anything – Wolf Parade
2006: Wolf Like Me – TV on the Radio
2007: Past in Present – Feist
2008: Kids – MGMT
2009: Soft Shock – Yeah Yeah Yeahs
2010: We Used to Wait – Arcade Fire

There was also a cake. Because the week leading up to my birthday didn’t go quite as planned, the cake came a few days later, which was totally fine by me as there were plenty of celebratory cupcakes consumed over the course of the birthday weekend. The passion fruit and lime Bavarian cake is a Tartine classic. I’d been waiting a while for an excuse to make this cake, and what better excuse than a big birthday? It involves layers of chiffon, passion fruit Bavarian cream, and shaved coconut. Everything about this cake is scrumptious and it’s also extremely light, so be careful, or you might find yourself going to town. Not that there’s anything wrong with that. But don’t say I didn’t warn you.

passion fruit and lime bavarian

adapted from Tartine by Elisabeth Pruiett and Chad Robertson

serves 12-16

for the chiffon cake:

2-1/4 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1-1/2 cups sugar

3/4 teaspoons salt

1/2 cup vegetable oil

6 large egg yolks

3/4 cup water

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1-1/2 teaspoons grated lemon zest

10 large egg whites

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line the bottom of a 10-inch springform pan with parchment paper cut to fit exactly. Do not grease the sides of the pan.

Sift together the flour and baking powder into a large mixing bowl. Add 1-1/4 cups of the sugar and the salt and whisk to combine. In a small bowl, whisk together the oil, egg yolks, water, vanilla, and lemon zest. Make a well in the flour, add the yolk mixture, and then whisk thoroughly and quickly for about 1 minute until very smooth.

Place the egg whites in a large mixing bowl. Using a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat on medium speed until frothy. Add the cream of tartar and beat on medium-high speed until the whites hold soft peaks. Slowly add the remaining 1/4 cup sugar and beat on medium-high speed until the whites hold firm, shiny peaks. Using a rubber spatula, scoop about one-third of the whites onto the yolk mixture and fold in gently to lighten the batter. Gently fold in the remaining whites just until combined.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan, smoothing the top with an offset spatula if necessary. Bake until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 45-55 minutes. Let cool in the pan (the sides of the pan will help hold the structure of the cake as it cools) on a wire rack. To unmold, run a small, thin knife around the sides of the pan to loosen the cake and then release and lift off the pan sides. Invert the cake, peel off the parchment, and cool completely. The cake will keep, well wrapped, in the refrigerator for up to 4 days or in the freezer for up to 1 month. When ready to assemble, split the cake into 4 layers. You will only need 3 layers for this recipe. Reserve the extra layer for another use.

for the lime syrup:

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 cup water

grated zest of 2 limes

1/3 cup lime juice

Combine the sugar and water in a small, heavy saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring with a wooden spoon. When the sugar has dissolved, remove from the heat and chill until cool, about 30 minutes. Whisk the lime zest and juice into the syrup.

Line the sides of the springform pan with plastic wrap, allowing enough overhang to cover the top of the cake completely when it is assembled. Leave the bottom of the pan unlined. Fit1 cake layer into the bottom of the pan. Using a pastry brush, moisten the later with one-third of the lime syrup. Set aside.

for the bavarian cream:

2/3 cup passion fruit pulp, frozen or fresh (about 12 fruits)

2 large egg yolks

1/3 cup sugar

pinch of salt

1-1/2 teaspoons unflavored gelatin

2 tablespoons water

1-1/2 cups heavy cream

Pass the passion fruit pulp through a fine-mesh sieve placed over a small bowl and discard seeds. In a large bowl, prepare an ice bath of both ice and water. In a medium saucepan, bring about 2-inches of water to a simmer. Combine the egg yolks, sugar, passion fruit, and salt in a stainless steel bowl that will rest securely in the saucepan, making sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water. Whick together and then place over the saucepan and continue to whisk until the yolks are hot to the touch (120°F), about 7 minutes. This is the bombe.

Meanwhile, sprinkle the gelatin over water in a small dish and let stand for a few minutes to soften. When the bombe is ready, add the gelatin and whisk well to dissolve. Remove the bowl from the hot water and nest the  bowl in the ice bath jsut until slightly cool to the touch, whisking to cool the mixture evenly.

In the bowl of a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the cream until it holds medium-stiff peaks. Scoop about one-third of the cream into the bombe. Gently fold in the remaining whipped cream with a rubber spatula.

Working quickly, pour half of the mixture onto the first layer of cake. Top with the second layer, being careful as the filling is very liquid. Brush this layer with half of the remaining lime syrup and then immediately pour the remaining Bavarian cream over it. Carefully top with the last layer and moisten it with the remaining syrup. Fold the overhanging plastic wrap over the top of the cake, covering completely, and refrigerate overnight.

When you are ready to finish the cake, release and lift off the pan sides and peel away the plastic wrap. Using a wide metal spatula, transfer the cake to a serving plate, if using, or leave it on the cake pan base.

for the topping:

1-1/2 cups heavy cream

3 tablespoons sugar

1 cup unsweetened large-flake dried coconut

Using a whisk or stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the cream until thickened. Add the sugar and whip until the cream holds soft peaks. Using an offset spatula, frost the top and sides of the cake with the whipped cream, and then sprinkle the top and sides with coconut. Return the cake to the refrigerator for about 2 hours before serving to allow the coconut flakes to absorb the moisture from the cream and soften.

Serve the cake cold. It will keep in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

chocolate whoopie pies

It feels like it’s been forever since I was last here. I swear I’ve been meaning to write. But I’ve been running around like a chicken with its head cut off and playing event coordinator and baking like it’s nobody’s business. Does anyone else feel like August is moving at a rapid pace? I can’t believe how fast these days have come and gone. I also can’t believe that in thirty days I’ll be thirty. OMG. WTF? I’m not ready. Let’s talk about whoopie pies.

When I started seeing whoopie pie pans at Sur la Table a while back, I was skeptical. Maybe unenthusiastic is a better word. I thought of it as just another fad in the baking world. I had never had a whoopie pie, and though I like the original concept behind them (a use for excess cake batter), I never had much interest in making them.

But a few weeks ago I passed by a sweet looking little bakery after having dinner with Adrian and Ash and decided to pop in to pick up cupcakes for my sister’s birthday party. What actually caught my attention was a mountain of whoopie pies in the display case. So I ordered one to go.

We each took a bite of the ginormous cookie sandwich as we walked to the car. Rather than the cakey-cookie delight I had imagined, it was, though tasty, just two cookies filled with sugary buttercream. It went into my purse and stayed there until later that night, when I was at the bar and craving something sweet. I was with Edwin at that point and when he took his first bite, he said something along the lines of it tasting the way a baby or a cute little animal would taste if you bit into it (something only Edwin would say).  He was into it. Since his birthday was in just a few days to follow, I decided he would have whoopie pies. And I knew exactly where to turn for a recipe.

I know I’ve already declared my love for the gentlemen at Baked and their first book. Their second book, Baked Explorations, focuses on classic American desserts. Luckily for me, there were a few whoopie pie recipes to choose from. I went with the classic chocolate pie with Swiss vanilla filling.

Whoopie! I finally understand what all the hoopla is about. These whoopie pies are exactly what I imagined a whoopie pie should be. They’re cakey but have a slight cookie resemblance. And the Swiss buttercream is unbelievably light, kind of creamy and marshmallowy all at once. The combination of the rich chocolate cakey-cookie and airy vanilla filling is perfection. They’re like little hand-held cakes, which make them an ideal on-the-go treat. I think I know where Little Debbie got her inspiration.

chocolate whoopie pies

from Baked Explorations by Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito

makes 12-20 pies (depending on size)

for the cookies:

3-1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

1-1/4 teaspoons baking powder

1-1/4 teaspoons baking soda

3/4 cup dark unsweetened cocoa powder (preferably Valrhona)

2 teaspoons instant espresso powder

1/2 cup hot coffee

2 cups firmly packed light brown sugar

3/4 cup canola oil

1 large egg

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1/2 cup buttermilk, shaken

for the swiss vanilla filling:

5 large egg whites

1-1/2 cups sugar

2 cups (4 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes, cool but not cold

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

make the chocolate cookies:

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, baking powder, and baking soda. Set aside.

In another large bowl, whisk together the cocoa and espresso powders. Add the hot coffee and 1/2 cup hot water and whisk until completely dissolved.

In a medium bowl, stir the brown sugar and oil together. Add this to the cocoa mixture and whisk until combined. Add the egg, vanilla, and buttermilk and whisk until smooth.

Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients. Make sure to scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl as you fold.

Use a small ice cream scoop with a release mechanism to drop heaping tablespoons of the batter onto the prepared baking sheets about 1 inch apart. Bake for 10-15 minutes, until the cookies are just starting to crack on top and a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Let the cookies cool completely on the pans while you make the vanilla filling.

make the Swiss vanilla filling: 

In the bowl of an electric mixer, whisk the egg whites and sugar together. Set the bowl over a pan of simmering water but do not let the water touch the bottom of the bowl. Heat the mixture until the sugar is completely dissolved and the color is a milky white, about 2 to 3 minutes.

With the mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat on low then increase to  medium-high speed until smooth and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Remove the whisk attachment and replace with the paddle attachment. Add the cubed butter and beat on medium-high  speed until smooth and fluffy, about 5 minutes. If the butter looks like it’s breaking, keep beating until it comes together.

Add the salt and vanilla and beat for 5 seconds to combine.

assemble the whoopie pies:

Turn half of the cooled cookies upside down (flat side facing up).

Use and ice cream scoop or a tablespoon to drop a large dollop of filling onto the flat side of the cookie. Place another cookie on top of the filling. Press down slightly so that the filling spreads to the edges of the cookie. Repeat until all the cookies are used. Put the whoopie pies in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes to firm up before serving.

The whoopie pies will keep for up to 3 days, on a parchment lined baking sheet covered with plastic wrap, in the refrigerator. Bring the whoopie pies chilled or at room temperature.

strawberry elderflower layer cake

My to-do list for 2012 is growing daily. At the very top of the list: elderflower procurement. Plant it, buy it, forage for it, whatever it takes - I absolutely must have elderflower next year.

Why the urgency? I wanted to make an elderflower cocktail for an upcoming event that I’m planning, so I bought a bottle of elderflower syrup. But after I brought it home, I found myself wishing I could have made it myself. Elderflower is pretty hard to come by in these parts, and I believe I’ve just missed the small window of availability for the year. I’ve mentioned in the past that I’m a bit obsessive, right?

Since I had been daydreaming about elderflower, I couldn’t wait to put that elderflower syrup to use. I was already in the process of baking a cake for the July birthday festivities when it occurred to me – strawberries + elderflower cream + cake = heaven.

If you’re in search of the perfect cake for summer, look no further. This cake is a winner.  I’m a sucker tall cakes, and with four layers of tender sponge filled with elderflower-spiked whipped cream and fresh strawberries, this is most definitely a tall cake. To get the most of the elderflower flavor, I also brushed a little bit of the syrup onto each layer of cake. What you’ll end up with is a cake that is incredibly light, subtly floral and showcases the fresh, sweet strawberries perfectly.

Not only is this cake totally scrumptious, it is also quite a beauty. With its exposed layers and elderflower essence, it’s like the scantily clad, lightly perfumed cousin of the strawberry cakes my mom used to buy from the bakery for our birthdays. Now if that doesn’t convince you, I don’t know what will.

strawberry elderflower layer cake

adapted from Martha Stewart’s Baking Handbook by Martha Stewart

makes one 9-inch layer cake

unsalted butter, for pans

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 cup cornstarch

6 large whole eggs, plus 4 large egg yolks, room temperature

1 cup granulated sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

3/4 cup vegetable oil

4 cups heavy whipping cream

6 tablespoons elderflower syrup, plus more for the cake layers

2 tablespoons confectioners sugar

3 pints small strawberries, hulled

mint leaves, for garnish

Preheat the oven to 350F. Butter two 9-inch round cake pans; set aside.

In large bowl, sift together the flour and corn starch; set aside.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine the sugar, whole eggs, egg yolks salt and vanilla extract. Beat on high speed until thick and pale, about 5 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed.

Add the flour mixture to the egg mixture. With the mixer on low speed, beat until just combined. Add the oil in a steady stream and mix until just combined. Fold the mixture with a whisk a several times.

Divide the batter between the prepared pans and smooth with an offset spatula. Bake, rotating pans halfway through, until the cakes spring back when touched and a cake tester inserted comes out clean, about 30 minutes.

Immediately invert cakes onto a wire rack. Then reinvert cakes and let them cool completely, top sides up.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine cream, 6 tablespoons of elderflower syrup, and confectioners sugar. Starting on low speed and gradually increasing to medium-high, whip until stiff peaks form, about 2 minutes.

Using a serrated knife, trim the tops of the cakes to make level. Slice each cake in half horizontally into two layers. Place one of the bottom layers on a serving plate. Brush the later with elderflower syrup. Spread a quarter of the whipped cream over the layer; arrange a quarter of the strawberries on top, reserving the best looking strawberries for the top layer. Repeat with the remaining cake layers, syrup, cream, and strawberries. Garnish the top with mint leaves. Chill the cake if not serving immediately. Slice with a serrated knife and a large spatula.

apple graham coffee cake

Hey rhubarb! Where you at?

This is the pressing matter at the moment. Maybe I’m mistaken, but I swear there is usually rhubarb at the farmer’s market this time of the year. But I’ve been checking every week. And nada. No rhubarb is an indication to me that it’s not really spring yet. And this makes me yearn for springtime even more. Oh well. Hopefully I’ll have some rhurbarb deliciousness to share with you in the not-too-distant future.

In the meantime, I’m doing a bit of spring cleaning over here. I recently took an inventory of my pantry and have come to realize that I have a lot of flour. Like a lot. Some of it is leftover from past experiments. And then there is some that I’ve been hoarding for future projects. It’s a little bit out of control, so I’m making a point to use what I have before I buy anything else.

Enter Good to the Grain. This lovely book has been sitting on my shelf for quite some time, waiting patiently for a little attention. It’s full of recipes that call for flours other than your run of the mill all-purpose variety. Since there is a whole chapter devoted to whole wheat flour, I decided it was time to finally crack open the package of graham flour that I’ve been holding onto. And since I had apples on hand, it seemed the only thing to do was make this apple graham coffee cake.

I’m a sucker for apple cakes. There is something so simple, even humble about an apple cake. Apples, cinnamon, sugar, flour, you get the picture. I was pleasantly surprised by this particular apple cake; I have to admit that I get a bit nervous when whole wheat flour is involved. I live in fear of heavy masses of dry, flavorless dough. But this cake is exactly the opposite – it is incredibly moist with a light crumb and bit of a rustic feel from the coarse graham flour. And the caramelized apples baked into the surface of the cake are just perfect, tender and sticky with cinnamon and sugar. Not only will this cake satisfy your sweet tooth, but you might just join the whole-grain fan club.

apple graham coffee cake

adapted from Good to the Grain by Kim Boyce

makes one 9-inch round cake

apple topping:

2 large tart apples (I used Granny Smiths), peeled and cored

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon sugar

dry mix:

3/4 cup all-purposr flour

3/4 cup graham flour

3/4 cup whole-grain pastry flour

1/3 cup sugar

1/3 cup dark brown sugar

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1 tablespoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1 teaspoon kosher salt

wet mix:

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly

1 cup buttermilk

1/4 cup whole plain yogurt

1/4 cup unsweetened applesauce

1 large egg

Preheat the oven to 350°F, with the rack positioned in the middle of the oven. Butter a 9-inch round cake pan with high sides (I used a 9×3-inch pan with a removable bottom). Set aside.

Quarter the apples, then cut each quarter into thirds. Slice the thirds into pieces as thick as your thumb.

In a large skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of butter with 2 tablespoons of sugar and 1 teaspoon of cinnamon over medium-high heat until bubbly. Add the apples and toss to coat, then let sear for 1 minute without stirring. Cook for 6-10 minutes, until tender and caramelized, stirring once a minute or so. Remove the caramelized apples from the heat and scrape them onto a plate with the buttery sauce.

Sift the dry ingredients into a large bowl and set aside.

Whisk together the wet ingredients until thoroughly combined. Using a spatula, scrape the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and gently mix until combined. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan, smoothing the top with a spatula. Spread the apple topping evenly over the batter.

Bake on the middle rack for 40-48 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through baking. The cake is ready when it is golden brown and springs back when lightly touched, or when a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean. Serve the cake warm or at room temperature.

apple upside-down cornmeal cakes

Sometimes I forget about apples. Like during the summer when there’s all sorts of peaches and plums around. And when fall arrives, I pretty much only have eyes for figs, then persimmons. But this fall, I’ve been admiring the apple tree in the neighbors yard, watching the fruit go from green to pink and thinking about how much I want to hop the fence and pick them. So… I actually sent Michael K over one afternoon to do the dirty work. Let me just say that the house has been vacant for a year now and though it might technically be trespassing, I know the old neighbors would have wanted it that way. Plus I hate the idea of good organic produce rotting away on the tree. I’m a forager at heart. Please don’t judge me.

I’ve also been admiring all of the apples in the markets, like the green Gravensteins and the Rome Beauties (pictured above) and the Pink Ladies. All of the rows of apples were just calling out to me one afternoon, I couldn’t really say no. But you can only eat so many apples.

Luckily, having all of those apples reminded me of a recipe that I had bookmarked in Gourmet forever ago – apple upside-down cornmeal cakes. I love the idea of single serving desserts – they’re easy to serve and even easier to give away. This is one of those desserts that I can imagine casually whipping up even after a long day at work, it’s that easy. I ended up making these twice because they weren’t quite right the first time; a little heavy and not quite sweet enough for me. So I added a spoonful of sugar and a little buttermilk – I have this theory that buttermilk makes everything better, which was definitely the case for this recipe.

There is something very comforting about these little cakes; the flavors are really simple, though if you’re big on spice, feel free to add some cinnamon, or a pinch of ginger, or maybe a little ground clove or cardamom. I actually really enjoyed the bright, unadulterated apple flavor, so I went spice-free. The cakes are like a lighter, cakey cornbread muffin smothered in apple goodness. I like to think of them as fall on a plate. They are the perfect ending to a hearty autumn/winter meal. I think they’re kind of great for breakfast too, or as an afternoon snack with a hot cup of tea.

apple upside-down cornmeal cakes

adapted from Gourmet

serves 6

6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into tablespoon pieces, plus additional for greasing

3 Gala apples, peeled and cored

1/3 cup packed light brown sugar

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1/2 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

3/4 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 cup yellow cornmeal

1/3 cup + 1 tablespoon granulated sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 large egg

3/4 cup buttermilk

Put oven rack in the upper third of oven and preheat to 425°F. Butter a muffin pan with six extra-large muffin cups. Cut apples into a 1/3-inch dice.

Heat 2 tablespoons butter in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat. When the foam subsides, cook apples, brown sugar, and lemon juice, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is reduced to a glaze and apples are tender, 5 to 6 minutes.

Stir in walnuts and divide apple mixture among muffin cups.

In a food processor, pulse together flour, cornmeal, granulated sugar, baking powder and salt until combined. Add remaining 4 tablespoons of butter and pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal with some small (roughly pea-size) butter lumps ( I did this by hand with a pastry blender).

Whisk together the egg and buttermilk. Pour the liquid into the  flour mixture and whisk until just combined.

Divide batter among muffin cups and bake until golden and a wooden pick inserted into center of a cake comes out clean, 15 to 20 minutes. Be careful not to over bake; my first batch were a tad on the dry side.

Run a pairing knife around edge of each cake to loosen. Invert rack over muffin cups then invert cakes onto rack. Be sure to serve warm. And with a dollop of whipped cream.

pretty plum cake

A few weeks ago, I found myself in a panic when I realized that all of the apricots and plums and cherries I’ve been enjoying this summer will be a thing of the past come September. I just don’t know what I’ll do with myself, especially since I’ve been a little plum crazy this season. It started with the cherry plums in my backyard. Then there were the black plums that came from the newlyweds’ tree. And then this plum cake happened.

Let’s rewind to last summer, when we were all still happily flipping through the pages of Gourmet. I instantly fell in love with the plum kuchen that was featured in the August issue; it photographed beautifully. Unfortunately, I never had the chance to try out the recipe, but I swore up and down that I would get to it the following year. And finally, I did. A few weeks back, I had a bag of plums and a Sunday all to myself, so I dedicated the afternoon to the plum kuchen. And now this is the part of the story where I sadly report that I was a little disappointed with the results, which rarely happens with Gourmet recipes.

Because I’ve been such a busy lady this summer, the thought of a five hour coffee cake is not super appealing to me. And if a recipe is going to require five hours of my time from start to finish, it has to be phenomenal. The kuchen, in my opinion, was just okay. It was gorgeous and had a light, airy texture, but somehow it was lacking; there was no balance between the tang of the fruit and the barely sweetened dough. I could definitely see the appeal, it just wasn’t for me. What I wanted was something a bit sweeter and more cakey, and this was more bread-like. I will say, in defense of this kuchen, that my expectations might have been a little beyond reason, which can happen when you have to wait an entire year to test a recipe.

But I loved the idea of an upside down plum cake; it’s such a simple yet stunning summer treat. I’ve mentioned in the past that I tend to be a bit obsessive, and let me tell you, this cake was definitely a result of my craziness. I was determined to make it work. So I borrowed the cake base from a recipe that I’ve made several times,  swapped out a few ingredients and proceeded with caution. It took a little bit of experimenting and some serious consulting with my favorite cubicle mate and a few other trusted tasters, but I couldn’t be happier with the final product. The juice from the sweet-tart plums, when combined with the sugar and butter in the bottom of the pan, creates a really delicious, syrupy jelly as it bakes. I literally licked the pan because that plum syrup is so tasty. And the cake was better than I could have imagined: sweet, tangy, a tiny bit buttery, a little caramelized on the edges. And absolutely pretty and pink. Sometimes, magic really happens in this kitchen.

pretty plum cake

inspired by Gourmet

serves 8

4 small firm-ripe plums, halved and pitted

1/3 cup sugar

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1-1/3 cups all-purpose flour

1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup vegetable oil

3/4 cup sugar

1-1/2 teaspoons vanilla

2 large eggs

2 tablespoons milk

Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter a 9-inch square baking pan and sprinkle the bottom with 1/3 cup sugar. Cut plums and into 1/4-inch slices and arrange in the pan in one layer. Set aside.

Sift together flour, baking powder and salt in a bowl. In the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix 3/4 cup sugar and vegetable oil until well combined. Add the eggs, one at a time, mixing until each is well combined. Add vanilla and milk. With the mixer on low, add the dry ingredients and mix until combined.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and spread evenly over the plums with an offset spatula. Bake until cake is golden brown and tester comes out clean, about 22-25 minutes, rotating once halfway through. Cool in pan for 5 minutes and then invert and unmold onto a rack to cool completely.

blum’s coffee crunch cake

Like most people who love to cook, I have an ongoing list of dishes I’d like to make one day. My list consists of various items found in magazines and cookbooks, classics that I have yet to tackle (like osso bucco and fresh pasta), things that I’ve eaten in restaurants that I want to recreate at home, and old family favorites. Now that I’m an adult I realize how fortunate I am to come from a family that loves food. My paternal grandparents were wonderful cooks. Because of them and their love for preparing delicious meals for their family, I really do appreciate a good home-cooked meal and homemade desserts.

My grandma’s coffee crunch cake is one of those family favorites that I’ve wanted to make for quite some time now. I think it might have been one of the best things I ate as a child. Who wouldn’t like a three layer cake covered in whipped cream and toffee? I know I’ve mentioned my grandma and her amazing baking before, but I just cannot say it enough – she was everyone’s favorite baker in her day. And now that she’s well into her 80′s, she’s become my favorite taster. If she says likes something that I’ve made, I know in my heart I’ve got a winner on my hands because she is not the kind of woman who just throws around compliments, especially when it comes to food.

A few weeks ago, while having dinner with Grandma, I mentioned that I wanted to make her coffee crunch cake and asked if she still had the recipe.  To my surprise she said she did (my mom always talks about the way Grandma could bake without even measuring ingredients so I fear that some recipes will be lost forever). And then she mentioned Blum’s. I didn’t realize what she was saying at first but then it became clear to me; the coffee crunch cake that I grew up with was actually an adaptation of Blum’s famous coffee crunch cake. Blum’s was a bakery in the heart of San Francisco’s Union Square (there were other Blum’s shops around San Francisco and also in Berkeley and Palo Alto). It was the kind of place where people would go after a long day of shopping at Macy’s or I. Magnin (the ladies who lunch set of those days likely frequented Blum’s). My grandma was born and raised in San Francisco and I can imagine her and my Great-Auntie Teiko going to Blum’s and eating coffee crunch cake. Unfortunately, Blum’s closed in the 70′s but their famous cake lives on in a few bakeries in San Francisco, including Yasukochi’s Sweet Stop in Japantown.

A few days after our dinner, I had a photocopied newspaper clipping with Blum’s recipe in my possession. After reviewing the recipe I realized that the individual elements of the cake are quite simple – sponge cake, whipped cream and a toffee like topping. Together, however, they create the most magnificent confection. It is the perfect combination of light, airy, creamy, crunchy and sticky with just the faintest lemony vanilla flavor. This cake is what the sweetest of dreams are made of. It’s the kind of cake that would’ve inspired a Wayne Thiebaud painting, full of old world charm and elegance. When I brought the cake to our last family dinner, I can’t describe to you how pleased my grandma was – she said she couldn’t believe I made it. I could see the pride on her face when everyone ooh’d and ahhh’d as it was being served. It was a delightful experience, for myself and for all of the other coffee crunch cake fans. As Grandma says, it was just delicious.

blum’s coffee crunch cake

from Flo Braker

serves 10-12

1 -1/4 cups cake flour, sifted

1-1/2 cups sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

6 egg yolks

1/4 cup water

1 cup egg whites (6-8 large eggs)

1 teaspoon cream of tartar

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

coffee crunch topping

unflavored vegetable oil

1 tablespoon baking soda, sifted

1/4 cup strong brewed coffee

1-1/2 cups sugar

1/4 cup light corn syrup

frosting

2 cups heavy cream

2 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons vanilla

for the cake:

Adjust rack in the lower third of oven;  preheat to 350°F. Sift flour, sugar and salt onto a sheet of wax paper; set aside.

Using an electric mixer, beat egg yolks with 1/4 cup sugar until thick and pale yellow. Add water and beat until thickened, about 4 minutes.

Whisk egg whites in bowl of a heavy-duty mixer just until frothy. Add cream of tartar; whisk until soft peaks form – about 2 to 3 minutes. Whisk in vanilla, lemon juice, and lemon zest. Pour yolk mixture over whites. Fold together with a rubber spatula. Sprinkle a third of the flour mixture over the egg mixture; fold to combine. Repeat two more times just until ingredients are incorporated. Gently pour batter into an ungreased 10-inch round tube pan with a removable bottom (such as an angel food pan). Level top with a spatula.

Bake for 50 to 55 minutes, or until top springs back slightly when lightly touched. Invert pan over a long-necked bottle to cool for about 45 minutes.

To  remove cake from pan, slip a flexible metal spatula down one side of pan; slowly trace perimeter to release the cake. When sides are free, push up on bottom to release cake. Tilt cake with removable bottom still attached, and gently tap bottom against counter to loosen cake. Rotate cake, tapping a few more times, until it appears free. Cover cake with a rack and invert; remove bottom of pan.

coffee crunch topping:

Generously oil a large baking sheet or line with a silicon mat or parchment paper; sift baking soda onto a sheet of wax paper; set nearby.

Combine coffee, sugar and corn syrup in a heavy, 4-quart saucepan. Place over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until sugar dissolves. When mixture is clear and begins to boil, increase heat to medium-high; cook until mixture reaches 290°F on a candy thermometer. Toward end of cooking (around 270°-280°), stir occasionally to prevent mixture from scorching and becoming too foamy. Remove from heat and stir in baking soda (mixture will foam up fiercely). While still foaming, pour out onto prepared baking sheet. Do not spread; let cool undisturbed for at least 1 hour.

Crush into very small pieces. (Place between two sheets of wax paper or inside a freezer size ziplock bag and tap with a rolling pin). Store in an airtight container.

for the frosting:

Combine cream, sugar and vanilla. Whisk until cream holds soft peaks.

to assemble:

Slice cooled cake into 3 equal layers using a serrated knife. Spread whipped cream between each layer, carefully stacking layers. Spread remaining whipped cream over the top and sides of cake. Refrigerate.

Just before serving, generously sprinkle top and sides with the coffee crunch.